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| Olbia ferries |
We decided on a return trip to Rome primarily to see Michelangelo's frescoes in the Sistine chapel which we had missed on our previous visit a few years back due to the never ending queues. With the ferry and flights booked and a hotel chosen close to the Vatican museum, Pope Benedict XVI resigns and the Sistine chapel is shut for the conclave coinciding perfectly with our visit. Never mind, there was still lots left to see and do. We decided to experience the overnight Tirrenia ferry from Olbia to Civitavecchia. The marina courtesy bus dropped us at the ferry terminal and we boarded the Nuraghes. We retired to the lounge area for a drink and joined the predominantly male passengers watching the football on tv. Despite the ship not being very full we decided we would have a quieter night in the reclining chairs a couple of decks up. It was a calm crossing and on arrival we were taken by courtesy bus to Civitavecchia train station. From there it was a 5 euro ticket to Rome Termini station. We stocked up with metro tickets and soon arrived at our hotel which was only a couple of minutes walk from Cornelia metro. We were allowed to check in early and were grateful to be able to catch up on some much needed sleep. We ventured out into the rain in the afternoon and surveyed our neighbourhood. It appeared to suit all our needs with a choice of cheap and cheerful restaurants close by as well as a couple of well stocked supermarkets.
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| MAXXI |
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| MAXXI |
The following day much to our relief the sun was shining and we emerged refreshed and ready to stretch our legs. We took the metro to Flaminio and took a leisurely stroll along the Tiber. We soon arrived at our destination, the MAXXI, Rome's new contemporary art museum. It is a stunning building designed by the Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid and has been awarded many prizes for its innovative design. We spent the best part of the day here and enjoyed our picnic lunch in the public courtyard admiring this fascinating building. Finally we walked back to the Tiber, crossed over and made our way back to the metro window shopping as we went. Our hotel had a small wellness area which included a jacuzzi for two which our legs gratefully enjoyed at the end of the day.
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| St. Callixtus |
The weather was kind so the next day we embarked on another grand walking tour. We took the metro to Garbatella and continued by foot to the Appian Way and the catacombs of St. Callixtus. They are among the most important in Rome and are part of a complex which occupies an area of 90 acres with a network of galleries about 12 miles long, in four levels, more than 20 metres deep. They originated around the middle of the second century and in it are buried 16 popes and many martyrs and christians. We arrived just in time to join a fascinating guided tour. We had our picnic lunch in the grounds and then continued walking along the ancient paving slabs of the Appian Way the main part of which was started and finished in 312 BC. Eventually it stretched some 400 miles from Rome to Brindisi in south east Italy. We tried to imagine the 6000 slaves who were crucified along here after the failure of Spartacus' rebellion in 71BC. We stopped for a thirst quenching beer along the way before we set off in search of the nearest metro, Arco di Travertino.
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| Piazza Santa Maria in Travestere |
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| Fontana delle Tartarughe |
Our final day found us crossing the Tiber on the 15th century Ponte Sisto footbridge and exploring the picturesque area of Trastevere. We enjoyed strolling around the narrow cobbled streets lined with medieval houses and people watching in Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. We made our way back across the Ponte Cestio to Tiber island which has been associated with medicine and healing since the 3rd century BC. We walked back through the Sant' Angelo district to Piazza Mattei to see the wonderful tortoise fountain, Fontana delle Tartarughe, designed by Giacomo della Porta in the sixteenth century. It was time to rest our weary legs and for a final visit to our excellent local restaurant, Joseph, in via Accursio.
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| Piazza Santa Maria in Travestere |
