28 Jul 2013

On the migrant trail...


It was soon getting too hot to hang around in a marina. We'd enjoyed our introduction to Monastir and are really looking forward to returning later in the year. Before we left we bought four 20 litre plastic cans from a spice shop (?!) and filled everything we could up with diesel at .55 eurocents per litre. Next stop was police and customs who then escorted us back to the boat for a cursory search and to cast off our lines. We had a fun night dodging numerous fishing boats during our 18 hour passage to Lampedusa.

Tunisian fishing boat at dawn

Looking for breakfast
Lampedusa is the largest of the three Pelagie islands which rise from the African continental shelf. It is barren and rocky and a first choice destination for hundreds of African migrants. Pope Francis beat us to the island by a couple of days and held an open air mass near a "boat cemetery" where the hulks of shipwrecked migrant boats lie in the sun. Lampedusa is also well known for its crystal clear waters and is popular with divers.











                                                           Lampedusa's turquoise waters

We caught up with our sleep in a lovely anchorage next to Conigli island well known for its stunning beach and turquoise waters. It has even been named as the best beach in the world on Tripadvisor this year. By mid morning you couldn't see the beach for umbrellas and bodies and we too were soon surrounded by boats of all shapes and sizes. After a couple of days we ventured into the main port and had a mooch around town. The pedestrian high street was awash with bars and Italian young things back from a day out toasting on the beach. We found a couple of shops, stocked up, and were soon on our way back to the turquoise waters for a couple more days chilling and snorkelling before heading east to Malta.

Cala Palma, Lampedusa harbour
Cala Palma, Lampedusa harbour

Lampedusa welcomes Pope Francis

6 Jul 2013

Thieving Sicilians and welcoming Tunisians

Marsala
Time to set off in search of a less bumpy anchorage and a decent sized supermarket to stock up with Italian goodies before setting sail for Tunisia. We found the latter but had three more nights rocking and rolling anchored just south of the marina breakwater in Marsala, Sicily. We dinghied ashore, shopped until we dropped and explored the town famed for Garibaldi's landing in 1860 and of course Marsala wine. The elegant historic centre was full of baroque buildings. On our last day we visited the Cantine Florio, leading producers of Marsala wine, for a tour of their extensive cellars followed by a wine tasting. Contrary to what we thought Marsala wine isn't all sweet and we tasted some delicious chilled aperitivo wines accompanied by parmesan and gorgonzola cheese.

  Marsala                                             Cantine Florio                                          Marsala


The last time we saw our dinghy...
Sailing past the Ribat as we entered Monastir marina
Disaster then struck. Our dinghy was not where we had left it and was nowhere to be seen. Bastardi! We went into the marina and begged a ride back to the boat. The next morning we set off, dinghy less, on the 140 mile passage to Tunisia managing to sail almost all the way there. We had a small weather window so decided not to stop at Pantelleria on the way. We continued on to Monastir where we arrived the following morning passing the familiar Ribat (as featured in Monty Python's Life of Brian and Franco Zefirelli's Jesus of Nazareth) on our way in. The marina staff greeted us and directed us to the police and customs who were equally as welcoming. A customs lady and policeman then boarded the boat and asked to see some of the various items we had declared. We even got by without being asked for "presents". We had arrived in north Africa and couldn't wait to explore.



Traditionally a fishing port, Monastir is now a major tourist resort. The marina itself is a dusty blue and white affair full of predominantly French boats. It has a nice feel to it and is surrounded by restaurants, shops and even a laundry. Thanks to the laundry lady we discovered after three days that Tunisia is an hour behind Italy! We were now back on UK time. The town itself and all the shops including a daily market are only a ten minute walk away in or around the Medina. We had a wander around the Ribat, originally built in 796 as a coastal fort but subsequently added to, that once protected the Islamic empire from the heathens to the north. It also afforded great views of the marina and town as well as the swathe of hotels dotted along the coast.


Ribat, Monastir


Monastir marina
Monastir beachfront
 
Time to get on with what we came here for - getting the boat's bottom scrubbed, cleaned and repainted. We had booked in for a three day stay in the boatyard and opted for the first time not to do the work ourselves as the quote we received was so reasonable. Instead we checked into a nearby hotel and let the Tunisian workers get on with it. They worked hard and fast and in no time at all the boat was polished with a couple of fresh coats of antifouling on the bottom and we were back in the water.
Ride of a Lifetime looking shiny after her paint and polish job

We have decided to return in October when it is cooler to go travelling inland and explore the desert, oases, ancient sites and the various delights Tunisia has to offer. No luck finding a dinghy here so back to the computer to continue scouring the ether in the hope of locating one in Malta...

Fishing boats in Monastir marina


Monastir