Cap Corse and beyond

Statue of Napoleon

We set sail from Elba early for a forty mile passage to Corsica and dropped anchor just south of Bastia's citadel. We planned to circumnavigate Corsica which can be prone to strong winds coming out of the Gulf of Lyon so with the need for internet and access to regular weather forecasts we went ashore in search of the nearest Orange telephone shop and a very expensive data sim. We took the dinghy round to the beautiful Vieux Port and wandered through the slightly run down old town. After Napoleon moved the seat of Corsican power to Ajaccio in 1811 Bastia declined somewhat and it also suffered in World War II when many buildings were destroyed. We made our way to the huge central square, one of the largest in France, which features a rather camp statue of Napoleon in a toga. The square is dotted with palm and plane trees and overlooked by some fine old five storey mansion buildings. 

Vieux Port, Bastia

Saint Nicolas square, Bastia

Baie de Saleccio

Baie de Saleccio

With strong southerly winds forecast which would leave us exposed we decided to set sail in the afternoon and head north up the coast of Cap Corse. We dropped anchor in Baie de Tamarone and enjoyed a refreshing swim. The following morning we had a wonderful sail round the northernmost point of Corsica before heading south and finally stopping in Baie de Saleccio, an exquisite anchorage backed by fine white sand dunes and not a building in sight. It was a lovely place to spend a lazy couple of days. Having had our fill of turquoise water we slowly made our way round to Saint Florent and anchored in the large sandy bay just west of the small picturesque town which buzzes with holidaymakers in the summer months. With a westerly gale forecast we stayed put for a few days enjoying the delights of the town, lovely coastal walks and the entertainment provided by the numerous boats dragging their anchors in the forty knot winds.

Baie de Saleccio

Anchoraage under the ruined Genoese tower near Saint Florent

Saint Florent

Saint Florent

Saint Florent Bay

Saint Florent Bay

Calvi Citadel

Calvi harbour

Thankfully we held firm and as soon as the winds abated we continued our journey westward along Corsica's northern coast. We finally dropped anchor south of Calvi's impressive citadel and in front of yet another glorious expanse of sand. Due to the enormous, and relatively unused, mooring field between us and the town we had a long dinghy ride across to the busy harbour. We wandered around the narrow lanes up to the citadel which afforded great views of the bay. We stumbled upon a fascinating display provided by the 2nd Foreign Parachute Regiment, the elite airborne regiment of the French Foreign Legion stationed nearby. We saw a few of the multi national soldiers with their distinct white pillbox hats but unfortunately no Beau Geste. From fiction to fact we passed a statue of Christopher Columbus. The locals claim that he was born in Calvi. His house was reduced to rubble when the English navy, led by Horatio Nelson, besieged the town in 1794. It is also here that Nelson lost the sight of his right eye to a shrapnel wound in a return of fire. With our historical tour complete we trudged to the nearest large supermarket to replenish our ship's stores. Always a long hot sweaty task....

Calvi bay

Calvi

Calvi

Calvi citadel

Calvi waterfront