Medieval meander - Florence

Michelangelo's David

We woke to yet another morning of nonstop rain. Sadly it was time to leave Siena and we made a dash to the bus station and clambered aboard the rapid Sita bus for the hour long journey to Florence. Thankfully our hotel wasn't too far from the bus stop and after a quick change we emerged into the drizzle and decided that this was the perfect weather for a gallery visit. We set off on foot to find the Galleria dell'Accademia and joined the short queue. We'd read that you need to book ahead for all the big museums in Florence but as it was February we decided to take a chance. Within half an hour we were in and standing in front of Michelangelo's magnificent giant marble statue, David. As well as other wonderful sculptures by Michelangelo, the Accademia also houses a collection of Renaissance paintings and a fascinating room, the Gipsoteca Bartolini, full of 19th century plaster casts by Lorenzo Bartolini. These were plaster templates created prior to sculpting in marble.

Plaster busts, Gipsoteca Bartolini

Mercato Centrale

Mercato Centrale

Having had our fill of art for the day we ventured yet again into the rain and went in search of some refreshment at the Mercato Centrale. The first floor of the wonderful 1874 iron and glass market building has been converted into a stylish eating and drinking venue. The place was buzzing. Stands selling a variety of mouth watering dishes are set around a huge central area with communal seating. We chose our food, grabbed a drink from one of the bars and joined in the fun.

Old city walls

View of Florence from the Rose Garden

Wall plaque, Oltrarno district

Shoe lasts, Oltrarno district

Thankfully the following morning brought sunshine and a glorious blue sky, perfect for exploring Florence by foot. Florence is the capital of Tuscany and the birthplace of the Renaissance. The historic centre was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1982. We made our way down to the Arno river, crossed the 16th century St Trinity bridge and found ourselves off the beaten track in the now trendy Oltrarno district. It is a characterful area of narrow streets and artisans' workshops including ceramicists, jewellers, bookbinders and shoemakers. We continued walking along the south side of the river and through the Porta San Miniato, the old city gate. From here we made our way up the steep stone steps to Piazzale Michelangelo. We had a welcome rest half way up in the lovely Rose Garden before stopping at the top to admire the incredible views over Florence.

Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo

Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo

Ponte Vecchio bridge

Piazza della Signora

Il Porcellino

Having revived ourselves with a welcome coffee we crossed back over the Arno and made our way along the north bank to the famed medieval Ponte Vecchio bridge. There have been shops on the bridge since the 13th century. Initially there were all types including butchers, fishmongers and tanners but in the 16th century it was decreed that only goldsmiths and jewellers be allowed. We were firmly back on the tourist trail again and our next destination the Piazza della Signora was brimming with selfie sticks. This square and the prominent Palazzo Vecchio have been the centre of political life since the 14th century. It was full of larger than life statues (living and not) and was the original site of Michelangelo's David. For a bit of light relief we next went in seach of Il Porcellino, and rubbed the snout of the bronze boar for luck. Our final stop was the magnificent Duomo dating back to the end of the 13th century. The basilica is one of Italy's largest churches and Brunelleschi's dome remains the largest brick dome ever constructed. Our feet by now were feeling decidedly weary and we just had enough energy to try out a local Indian restaurant for supper. A delicious and welcome change to the non stop pizza and pasta fare.

Palazzo Vecchio

                                          Statues in Piazza della Signora (or not?!)

Piazza del Duomo

The Duomo

Giotto's Campanile

Titian, Venus of Urbino

Our last morning in Florence was spent in the Galleria degli Uffizi, home to the world's greatest collection of Italian Renaissance art. There was no queue at all and we spent a very long morning admiring this extraordinary collection which includes famous works by Botticelli, Caravaggio, Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, Titian, and the only surviving panel painting by Michelangelo. In the afternoon it was time for some light relief and a spot of retail therapy. Florence, after all, was the birth place of Italian high fashion.

Leonardo da Vinci and Andrea del Verrocchio, Annunciation

Michelangelo, Doni Tondo