Spring walks and salted cod

Walking through the beech woods

We managed to fit in one more trip before Easter. Our wonderful marina owners, Anna and Luca, whisked a small group of cruisers off for another magical mystery tour in the Abruzzo mountains. Thankfully, this time, the temperatures were a good 15 degrees warmer than our last foray into the Apennines. Our first stop was the nature reserve, Zompo lo Schioppo. We set off on foot on a circular trail through the beech woods full of spring flowers just coming into bloom. Twenty different species of orchid have been discovered here but sadly not by us! The trail took us to the Zompo lo Schioppo waterfall, one of the highest natural waterfalls in the central Apennine mountains. The waters exit from a sheer cliff face falling from a height of over 80m and flow downstrean to the village of Morino.

The gang!

Zompo lo Schioppo

The old cemetry

Our next stop was the mountain village of Civita d'Antino, an ancient walled stronghold perched 904m high overlooking the wild and beautiful Roveto valley. It was "discovered" in 1883 by the Danish artist Kristian Zahrtmann who was captivated by the quality of light and the magnificent scenery. He established a summer school for aspiring Scandinavian artists and over the years he was joined by some 80 painters, many of whom became famous. We walked through the alleys of the old town and followed a rough footpath to the old cemetry, a stone-built roofed corridor with inscriptions on the walls commemorating the dead who were interred under the floor. Adjoining the building there is a narrow grassed strip of deconsecrated ground where non Roman Catholics were buried including a few of the Scandinavian artists who died there.

View from the cemetry

Civita d'Antino

Civita d'Antino

Salad with cod and strawberries!

Time for a well earned lunch and we retired to the aptly named, Antica Osteria Zahrtmann, a small rustic restaurant with vaulted ceilings serving local cuisine. The restaurant opened especially for us and we sat down to the most amazing salted cod menu. We started with a mouth watering cod and strawberry salad which was followed by pasta with a cod ragu and finally a cod and truffle risotto! A deliciously perfect end to a lovely day.

Antica Osteria Zahrtmann

Civita d'Antino