Maritime Valencia

View over the MRJCI superyacht basin

Port side bar opposite the superyacht basin, MRJCI

In addition to the intermittent clunk noise the engine made when it was refusing to start it was now puffing out white and blue smoke when it finally roared into life which then refused to dissipate. Not only did we need to find a reasonably cheap marina fast, a rare commodity in August, we also needed a Volvo Penta engine agent. Valencia, on the east coast of Spain, ticked both boxes. We set off in the afternoon for the 90 mile passage from Ibiza and thankfully managed to sail most of the way only starting the engine at dawn for the last few miles to the Marina Real Juan Carlos I (MRJCI). It is a huge modern marina with a superyacht basin as well as two marina basins for yachts. We soon discovered that it took about 40 minutes to walk from our berth to the superyacht area not to mention the shops/bars/restaurants which were further still. When we were feeling lazy our dinghy or the marina RIB came to the rescue! The Volvo guys promised to visit in a couple of days so we set about exploring our neighbourhood.

Rotating swing bridge MRJCI

Our dinghy dock in front of the Port Clock building, MRJCI

Alinghi, the 32nd America's Cup winner

Alinghi V, the 33rd America's Cup runner up

The port area was revamped in preparation to host the 32nd America's Cup in 2007 and the 33rd America's Cup in 2010 and also includes the European Grand Prix Formula 1 street circuit which was held in Valencia between 2008 and 2012. We checked out our free laundry facilities hidden away at the back of the south marina and across the road we spotted a rather large hulk lying on the concrete. On closer inspection we discovered the monohull, Alinghi, the Swiss 32nd America's Cup winner and the monster multi hull Alinghi V, the 33rd America's cup runner up. For anyone interested click here to see Alinghi in the very exciting deciding race. How sad to see these once incredible boats abandoned. We continued along what was once the F1 race track imagining Massa racing to victory at the inaugural event. Unfortunately the 140m rotating swing bridge across the port, also part of the F1 track, is left open so crossing to the other side was impossible. 

Abandoned Alinghi V

Tinglados, most recently used as the F1 pit stop!

Tinglado

Inside the King of Aragon's shipyards

The Royal Marina is one of the city's most important landmarks, not only due to the events that are held there but also due to its unique buildings. The quayside of the superyacht harbour is also the home of large impressive modernist warehouses or Tinglados, which were originally built in 1911 to store unloaded materials, mainly vegetables and grain. Of the original six, only three are still standing. They have been refurbished and two of them were used as pit stops during the F1 days. We also passed the elegant early twentieth century Port Clock building which was originally built to serve as the Maritime Station and entrance to Valencia. Just back from the port, but once on the water's edge, we discovered the King of Aragon's shipyards. The five huge sheds with Gothic arcades were originally used to build and arm the King's galleys. 

King of Aragon's shipyards

Passing the Veles e Vents building in the dinghy

Walking up to the Veles e Vents building

Valencia's huge beach

Game of Thrones on Valencia beach

The Port of Valencia is the largest in Spain and in the Mediterranean basin. The marina is not just surrounded by the vast cranes of the port and reminders of the past. The Veles e Vents (sails and wind) building, designed by David Chipperfield and Fermin Vazquez for the America's Cup, is an innovative minimalist architectural statement. It also offers restaurants and bars with wonderful views over the marina, beaches and city. Valencia is also known for its huge expanse of beach lying right next to the marina, the start of which is marked by two enormous flagstaffs flying the national and Valencian flags. Next to the beach the Paseo Maritimo is a popular walkway for both cyclists, joggers, skateboarders and promenading pedestrians and is flanked by restaurants all serving the ubiquitous paella of which Valencia is the home.

Busy Valencia beach

Meanwhile back at the ranch the engine has been condemned. The pistons are worn, the compression is down, the sea water pump is leaking again and the list goes on.....RIP!!

Sunsets, bongos and the Ibizan vibe

Traditional fishing boat sheds, Cala Xarraca

Queen Victoria sitting on her throne!

With our problems behind us we set off at dawn from Santa Ponsa, unfurled the jib and, despite a nasty swell still running, had a nice downwind sail most of the way to Ibiza. Our American friends on Mandala were heading the same way so we arranged to rendezvous in Cala Xarraca, a large, relatively unspoilt bay surrounded by lush green pine forests on the north west side of the island. We anchored just in front of a row of traditional rustic fishing boat sheds with tracks leading down to the sea, typical of Ibiza. After a couple of nights at anchor we both continued on down the coast to Benirras, known for its spectacular hippy drumming sunsets, an iconic Ibizan hippy ritual established over many years. We got into the vibe with drinks in the cockpit aboard Mandala and with the accompanying drums we watched the sun go down behind a vertical rock which is said to have the appearance of Queen Victoria sitting on her throne! Sadly it was to be our last night together as we had to leave early the next morning to prepare for the imminent arrival of my sister and nephew.

Cala Xarraca

At anchor in Cala Xarraca

Hanging out on the fishing boat sheds, Benirras

Sunset, Benirras

At anchor in Cala Benirras

Mandala at anchor in Cala Benirras

We sailed south to San Antonio, filled up with diesel, and checked into the marina for half an hour. The marinas on Ibiza cost the earth but they offer a short, reduced fee visit to pick up water. Even then we had to work fast and only just managed to fill and wash the boat in the allotted time. We were unable to dinghy ashore due to strong winds and watched helplessly as boats all around us dragged their anchors. Thankfully we had scoured the muddy waters for what looked like a small sandy patch and our anchor held. As soon as the wind abated we dinghied ashore to stock up with provisions. We had time to enjoy one more stunning sun set before continuing south the next morning. Our hearts sank as we heard the all too familiar clunk when we started the engine and this time accompanied by clouds of voluminous white smoke. The problem would have to wait. We had a plane to meet so with fingers crossed that we'd survive the week we continued down the coast and joined the jet set at anchor in Cala Jondal.

                                                             San Antonio sunsets

Busy Espalmador and anchorage

It was Salsa night at the Tropicana beach club and we went ashore to join in the fun while waiting for Tanya and Oliver to arrive. With our additional crew safely aboard we set sail the next morning to Formentera. If we thought it was crowded last time we visited, it now resembled a busy car park which included the Saudi royal yacht Prince Abdulaziz, the 7th largest yacht in the world. Espalmador beach was as beautiful as ever despite the increase in bodies. 

Another sunset at Cala Benirras

Twilight at Cala Benirras

Watching the sun go down

Next day, with a big storm forecast, we decided to head back to Ibiza and return to Benirras which appeared to offer the best protection. We were sheltered from the wind but unfortunately the swell crept in and we had a very rock and rolly night. The heavens opened and the winds blew for most of the next day. Cards came to the rescue and I had great fun reacquainting myself with the game of poker. The torrential rain finally stopped allowing us to dinghy ashore for drinks and a stroll on the waterlogged beach. The dark skies didn't stop the drummers and Oli was happy as the beach sign turned out to be a Pokéstop and I actually witnessed my first Pokémon capture!

At anchor in Cala San Miguel

Tanya and Oli on our coastal walk

At anchor in Cala San Miguel

!!!!!!!!

The following morning with the sun shining once again we motored round to Cala San Miguel. We had a lovely lunch ashore followed by a walk round the bay. To avoid a long sail the following day we set sail again later that afternoon and dropped anchor in Cala Comte. There were more Ibizan sun set vibes as hordes of people gathered on the cliffs and cheered as the sun finally disappeared beyond the horizon.

Sunset at Cala Comte

Early morning at The Blue Marlin beach club, Cala Jondal

Poser at the
 Blue Marlin!

The next morning we made our way back to Cala Jondal as sadly Tanya and Oli were flying home to Madrid the next day. Tanya was keen to witness first hand the Blue Marlin, one of Ibiza's coolest and most famous clubs. With camera in hand we dropped her and Oli off at the Blue Marlin dock and parked the dinghy on the beach further up. We had arranged to meet them later in the Alegria beach bar once they had had their fill of skimpily clad girls in sequin bikinis sipping champagne on large sun beds that cost upwards of 100€ for the day. Finally, we returned to the boat with the Blue Marlin beat a distant thump in the background. Just as the club was waking up the next morning we dropped Tanya and Oli back at the dinghy dock. A taxi rocked up with club guests and Tanya and Oli climbed in for the ten minute journey to the airport.

Blue Marlin beach club babes

Walking on water,
Cala Jondal

We remained in the bay for a couple of days while we yet again scratched our heads and stroked our chins hoping for some mechanical revelation. We eventually came to the conclusion that it was time to seek professional help. With marinas in the Balearic islands charging upwards of 100€ for a night we decided that heading across to mainland Spain was probably our best option.

Cala Jondal

Cala Jondal

Restoration and degustation

Taking the dog for a paddle, Santa Ponsa

Back in the safe anchorage at Santa Ponsa, Mallorca, there was a lot of head scratching and chin stroking. We eventually came to the conclusion that our engine problems were due to a faulty starter motor.  We therefore decided to bite the bullet and replace it. Our Palma friends, Mandy and Gra, kindly came to the rescue yet again and sourced the new Volvo part for us. For the third time this summer we found ourselves without the use of the engine while bobbing at anchor. Not an ideal situation in a crowded anchorage. We chose a calm day and embarked on removing the old part and replacing it with the shiny new one. After an extremely long day and many expletives, the job was completed and everything appeared to work. I think the Captain could have done with a more agile and savvy assistant!

Cala Santa Ponsa

Not something from the Little Shop of Horrors but Berengenas de Amalgro,
(pickled eggplant) served aboard Mandala in Nancy's beautiful hand made bowl

Securing Mandala's dinghy beneath the El Balcon de Maria
restaurant, Santa Ponsa

El Nautico restuarant

It wasn't all doom and gloom. While we sat at anchor sorting out our problems we had great fun wining, dining and catching up with old friends as they came and went. Our American friends, Ron and Nancy on Mandala, whom we met last winter in Gaeta, stopped by for a few days. Then it was the turn of Kate and Hugh on Indaba whom we travelled to the Middle East with and hadn't seen for seven years. In between the comings and goings of Mandala and Indaba we also managed to pop into Palma on the bus and visited Mandy and Gra on Skalu in Real Club Nautico marina, our old wintering spot of 12 years ago. We had a lovely, very, very, long lunch at the El Nautico restaurant on the first floor of the clubhouse. It was just like we'd never left. With our problem solved and my sister and nephew arriving in a few days it was time to head back to Ibiza.

Real Club Nautico marina from El Nautico restaurant

Santa Ponsa anchorage from El Balcon de Maria restaurant