Formentera tour

Small village of Es Calo

We had a good crossing over to Ibiza and dropped anchor in San Antonio in order to stock up with provisions before setting off in a southerly direction for the tiny island of Formentera. We'd discovered a lovely sandy anchorage on the north eastern tip of the island last year and with the winds blowing from the west it looked like being a perfectly sheltered spot to base ourselves for a few days and a welcome chance to get ashore to explore further afield.

Es Calo anchorage

Es Calo harbour and dinghy dock

For some reason the huge motor boats seem to gravitate to the other side of the island where the plethora of smart restaurants are situated leaving the small fishing village of Es Calo relatively unspoilt. The village comprises a couple of grocery stores, a wonderful bar with a superlative view, a restaurant and bicycle hire shop. Pretty much all we needed. After a couple of days chilling we took the dinghy into the lovely little natural harbour and set about hiring a couple of bikes.

Sant Ferran de ses Roques main square

Fonde Pepe bar

Our first stop was Sant Ferran de ses Roques, a village located in the heart of the island with a pretty main square and a church dating back to the 18th century.  It is also where the island's hippy movement began. Opposite the church is the well known 1960's haunt, the Fonda Pepe, a bar, restaurant and hostel which is still living off its reputation as a hippy hangout today. Pink Floyd and Bob Dylan were regulars here and apparently whiled away many an hour playing chess. The artisan market sadly doesn't come to life until the evening so with not much else to see we grabbed a quick coffee and continued on our way. It is a small island and we were soon circling Formentera's huge salt lagoon and the salt flats.

Formentera salt flats

Ca Na Costa

We made a small detour to Ca Na Costa, a small megalithic gravesite dating back to the Bronze age which was probably used between 2,000 and 1,600 BC. Apparently there were eight people buried here and various buttons and beads have been found. 

The large Estany Pudent lagoon

Anchorage off La Savina

Tim and our trusty steeds!

We continued circling the lake until we arrived at the town of La Savina, the location of the island's port and marina. From here we got a good view of the sea and the crowded anchorage on the north western side of the island. We'd already gone much further than originally planned and our legs were beginning to wilt. It was a good opportunity to stop for a rest, have a quick bite and study our trusted map before navigating our way back. We decided on the scenic route along the dusty cycle paths running along the western side of the large Estany Pudent (literal translation foul smelling pond). It is part of the Formentera natural park and the surrounding wetlands are rich in wildlife. It was getting hotter and hotter and the maze of paths became dustier and more confusing. We were exhausted, out of water and looking very bedraggled by the time we eventually found a tarmac road again. Somewhat relieved at finding civilisation again we stopped for some much needed refreshments.

Formentera salt flats

Bicycling down the dusty path

Estany Pudent

                                                              Playa Es Arenals 

Es Calo popular bar

Despite our tiring legs we decided to make a quick detour to Playa Es Arenals before heading home. We wanted to check out the west side of the island which was just a short hop across the land from Es Calo. The grass definitely wasn't greener on the other side. We found an extremely crowded  beach and decided not to stop for a drink and instead returned to Es Calo and our waterside bar where we could watch Ride of a Lifetime bobbing in the glorious turquoise waters.

View from the bar, Es Calo. Can you spot Ride of a Lifetime?

El Pilar de la Molar market

We had time for one more trip ashore before having to move due to the changing winds. Further east at the top of the Molar plateau lies the quiet town of El Pilar de la Molar, the location of a well known market. Various artists and craftspeople from all over the island set up stalls a couple of afternoons a week during the summer months. It was a short bus ride away and we enjoyed a mooch but came away empty handed.

We were lucky that the weather had allowed us to stay put for a few days but sadly it was time to vacate the lovely anchorage and head north back to Ibiza.

Firefox - an old Formentera hippy market stall holder

Sunsets, bongos and the Ibizan vibe

Traditional fishing boat sheds, Cala Xarraca

Queen Victoria sitting on her throne!

With our problems behind us we set off at dawn from Santa Ponsa, unfurled the jib and, despite a nasty swell still running, had a nice downwind sail most of the way to Ibiza. Our American friends on Mandala were heading the same way so we arranged to rendezvous in Cala Xarraca, a large, relatively unspoilt bay surrounded by lush green pine forests on the north west side of the island. We anchored just in front of a row of traditional rustic fishing boat sheds with tracks leading down to the sea, typical of Ibiza. After a couple of nights at anchor we both continued on down the coast to Benirras, known for its spectacular hippy drumming sunsets, an iconic Ibizan hippy ritual established over many years. We got into the vibe with drinks in the cockpit aboard Mandala and with the accompanying drums we watched the sun go down behind a vertical rock which is said to have the appearance of Queen Victoria sitting on her throne! Sadly it was to be our last night together as we had to leave early the next morning to prepare for the imminent arrival of my sister and nephew.

Cala Xarraca

At anchor in Cala Xarraca

Hanging out on the fishing boat sheds, Benirras

Sunset, Benirras

At anchor in Cala Benirras

Mandala at anchor in Cala Benirras

We sailed south to San Antonio, filled up with diesel, and checked into the marina for half an hour. The marinas on Ibiza cost the earth but they offer a short, reduced fee visit to pick up water. Even then we had to work fast and only just managed to fill and wash the boat in the allotted time. We were unable to dinghy ashore due to strong winds and watched helplessly as boats all around us dragged their anchors. Thankfully we had scoured the muddy waters for what looked like a small sandy patch and our anchor held. As soon as the wind abated we dinghied ashore to stock up with provisions. We had time to enjoy one more stunning sun set before continuing south the next morning. Our hearts sank as we heard the all too familiar clunk when we started the engine and this time accompanied by clouds of voluminous white smoke. The problem would have to wait. We had a plane to meet so with fingers crossed that we'd survive the week we continued down the coast and joined the jet set at anchor in Cala Jondal.

                                                             San Antonio sunsets

Busy Espalmador and anchorage

It was Salsa night at the Tropicana beach club and we went ashore to join in the fun while waiting for Tanya and Oliver to arrive. With our additional crew safely aboard we set sail the next morning to Formentera. If we thought it was crowded last time we visited, it now resembled a busy car park which included the Saudi royal yacht Prince Abdulaziz, the 7th largest yacht in the world. Espalmador beach was as beautiful as ever despite the increase in bodies. 

Another sunset at Cala Benirras

Twilight at Cala Benirras

Watching the sun go down

Next day, with a big storm forecast, we decided to head back to Ibiza and return to Benirras which appeared to offer the best protection. We were sheltered from the wind but unfortunately the swell crept in and we had a very rock and rolly night. The heavens opened and the winds blew for most of the next day. Cards came to the rescue and I had great fun reacquainting myself with the game of poker. The torrential rain finally stopped allowing us to dinghy ashore for drinks and a stroll on the waterlogged beach. The dark skies didn't stop the drummers and Oli was happy as the beach sign turned out to be a Pokéstop and I actually witnessed my first Pokémon capture!

At anchor in Cala San Miguel

Tanya and Oli on our coastal walk

At anchor in Cala San Miguel

!!!!!!!!

The following morning with the sun shining once again we motored round to Cala San Miguel. We had a lovely lunch ashore followed by a walk round the bay. To avoid a long sail the following day we set sail again later that afternoon and dropped anchor in Cala Comte. There were more Ibizan sun set vibes as hordes of people gathered on the cliffs and cheered as the sun finally disappeared beyond the horizon.

Sunset at Cala Comte

Early morning at The Blue Marlin beach club, Cala Jondal

Poser at the
 Blue Marlin!

The next morning we made our way back to Cala Jondal as sadly Tanya and Oli were flying home to Madrid the next day. Tanya was keen to witness first hand the Blue Marlin, one of Ibiza's coolest and most famous clubs. With camera in hand we dropped her and Oli off at the Blue Marlin dock and parked the dinghy on the beach further up. We had arranged to meet them later in the Alegria beach bar once they had had their fill of skimpily clad girls in sequin bikinis sipping champagne on large sun beds that cost upwards of 100€ for the day. Finally, we returned to the boat with the Blue Marlin beat a distant thump in the background. Just as the club was waking up the next morning we dropped Tanya and Oli back at the dinghy dock. A taxi rocked up with club guests and Tanya and Oli climbed in for the ten minute journey to the airport.

Blue Marlin beach club babes

Walking on water,
Cala Jondal

We remained in the bay for a couple of days while we yet again scratched our heads and stroked our chins hoping for some mechanical revelation. We eventually came to the conclusion that it was time to seek professional help. With marinas in the Balearic islands charging upwards of 100€ for a night we decided that heading across to mainland Spain was probably our best option.

Cala Jondal

Cala Jondal

Ibiza and things that go bump in the night

Cala Jondal

Photoshoot at the Alegria beach club

We had a long, lumpy sail in the rain across to Ibiza and dropped anchor in Cala Jondal, the home of one of Ibiza's most famous beach clubs, The Blue Marlin. It is a honey pot for the rich and famous. Needless to say we felt quite small surrounded by dozens of mega yachts. We dinghied ashore and joined the party at the Alegria beach bar, probably the least posey of the three beach clubs in the bay. We were entertained by a fashion shoot and of course the glamorous jet set sunning themselves on their sun loungers. It was only one bay away from the airport and so a perfect spot to pick up Rob and Julie who were arriving in a couple of days. We first needed to stock up with food, booze, water and diesel and so made our way up to the second largest town on the island, San Antonio. No longer the small fishing village it once was, it is now a centre of mass tourism and nightclubs. Usefully though it also has a few good supermarkets. Fully laden we returned to Cala Jondal to pick up our friends.

Walking along Espalmador beach

The sublime...

...and the ridiculous, Ocean Voyager

Espalmador and anchorage

Picnic time!

Cala Saona beach and rustic bar

With two extra crew on board we set off for Formentera and anchored off the northern tip just south of the private island of Espalmador. We had a lovely long walk along the stunning beach and inland to the mud baths. Sadly Health and Safety seem to have reached this little island and for health reasons you are no longer allowed to cake yourself in the soft glutinous mud. Maybe it was a good thing as the smell was pretty pungent! The anchorage was filling up and soon included Ocean Voyager, the 10th largest yacht in the world. It is understood to be owned by a Russian steel billionaire and features six swimming pools, a jacuzzi, gym, helipad and a helicopter hanger. The follwing day we left the super yachts behind and moved south to Cala Saona to anchor under the red cliffs for the night. We dinghied ashore for an early sunset drink at the rustic beach bar before walking across the sands to sample our first Spanish paella. Early next morning we set off back north to Ibiza and up the dramatic west coast.

Cala Saona anchorage

Cala Saona from the beach bar

Cala San Miguel

We passed on busy Cala Salida after witnessing a French boat hit a rock with a nasty bang and finally dropped the hook in Cala San Miguel. Much quieter and with a beach bar pefect for appéritifs before the big football match between Wales and Portugal. Sadly the red dragon didn't get hoisted that night! We continued north to Portinatx, a popular sheltered bay with three beaches and a busy little town. By nightfall the anchorage was full. Maybe that had something to do with the strong winds that were starting to blow. The fun and games began in earnest around 11pm. Boats and

Cala San Miguel from the beach bar

their navigation lights were soon milling around as anchors began to drag. Suddenly we felt a large bump as a big Sunsail 444 catamaran named Portals Vells, pinned itself to our bow. It continued to rake down our starboard side as we wondered helplessly how long our anchor would hold the two boats. It wouldn't be long before we too would start dragging onto the many boats lying behind us. The Swedish crew were in a panic and with their skipper ashore they couldn't bring up their anchor, nor could they buoy it off. Somehow we needed to extricate ourselves as soon as possible. Following a lot of screaming and shouting we eventually got the catamaran, with its anchor and chain still down,

Portinatx - spot the Sunsail catamaran!

to motor around the front of us. With much relief we then brought our own anchor up, told the crew of Portals Vells we would see them in the morning and motored off to anchor in the safety of clear, deeper water. A couple of hours later the catamaran in question sailed by into the darkness and we watched as its stern light disappeared over the horizon. So much for our arrangement to discuss the damage done in the morning! Julie excelled herself on Twitter and Facebook and by daylight Sunsail had responded. In the morning we moved back to shallower water and got down to writing a detailed report of the previous nights "hit and run" incident which needed to be sent to the Palma, Mallorca base. Sunsail were not going to get away with this.

                               Chain damage to the bottom of the boat or modern art?

Es Torrent anchorage

View down to the anchorage from Ravens Cottage

Twitter Queen Julie, at Ravens Cottage

Sea bass hidden under salt, Ses Boques

The week was drawing to a close and it was time to head south again. We had a cracking sail down to a large, sheltered bay under the dramatic red cliffs near Es Torrent beach. Rob has friends with a villa in Es Cubells and we had heard reports of a great beach restaurant not far away. We dinghied ashore to Port Roig and were whisked by car up to Ravens Cottage perched high up on a cliff. It was a wonderful spot with amazing views out to sea. Drinks on the terrace were followed by a dinner at the beach restaurant, Ses Boques, on the water's edge. We had a delicious meal which included mouth watering sea bass baked in salt. Sadly it was time for Rob and Julie to leave. Next morning we dinghied them ashore to Es Torrent, yet another upmarket beach club and restaurant, where we waved them off in a taxi to the airport. We spent the rest of the day reading the English newspapers they had brought with them. A real treat! We now had to face the reality of our continuing intermittent clunk, clunk engine starting issue. The problem was still with us so we decided to head back to Mallorca which we felt was probably the best place to fix the problem.

Es Torrent dinghy quay and the anchorage

Es Torrent beach