5 Jun 2018

The best laid plans of mice and men...


Puerto Genoves, Cabo de Gata
With our marina contract ending in May our departure date was getting closer and we couldn't put off the big decision as to which way to turn any longer. After much deliberation it was finally settled. We decided to turn right, leave the Med and enjoy a summer cruising the Algarve coast of Portugal. We bought an up to date Atlantic pilot and started reading up about pastures new. As the saying goes, "gentlemen never sail to windward". We try not to either, particularly if the wind is strong as invariably much of our home ends up on the saloon floor in the process and it puts unnecessary stresses on the boat. We therefore waited patiently for easterly, or thereabouts, winds to puff us on our way. Our patience was growing thin and a ten day forecast showed nothing but gale force westerly winds. We changed our minds and turned left instead!




La Manga from seaward



Thankfully the bridge begins to open...

Mar Menor from the Chiringuito
We thought about cruising up the coast of Spain but it is very exposed, not a great cruising ground and notorious for swell so our other option was to head back to the Balearic islands. Our time there a couple of years ago had been cut short due to engine troubles so there was still more to explore. We decided on leisurely day hops up the coast before crossing to Ibiza. It was blowing a force 7 gale when we set off and the seas were huge but we found shelter for the night in the lee of the notorious Cabo de Gata in a lovely sandy bay. It was nice to be at anchor again despite constantly swirling around in the incessant wind. After a couple of long day sails up the coast with only the jib powering us along we dropped anchor outside the Mar Menor, Europe's biggest salt water lagoon. The 170km² of warm water is separated from the sea by a 22km heavily built on sandy spit known as La Manga. Access to the lagoon is only at certain times via a narrow, shallow channel and a lifting bridge. We didn't trust our pilot so scoured the internet for the bridge

View across the Mar Menor to La Manga
opening times. They were all different so we set off to catch the 
10am (hopefully) opening somewhat nervously. We had read about boats hitting the bridge, boats running aground and the bridge not opening on time. It only opens for a short period so timing was important. We arrived at the channel bang on 10am with the bridge still firmly closed. We were now committed with limited maneuverability. We inched closer willing the cars to stop crossing and some sign that the bridge was about to open. Much to our relief the bridge very slowly started to lift and we motored on through and out into the flat waters of the inland sea. We anchored at the southern end off a sandy beach and looked forward to some peaceful nights. We went ashore, stretched our legs and enjoyed a lovely lunch in a local chiringuito bar on the beach. All very bizarre with a view of the overdeveloped sandy spit in the distance.



At anchor off the beach in the Mar Menor



Safely back through...
Rejuvenated we set off early to be ready and waiting for the first bridge opening at 8am. There were a couple of other boats milling around so we felt confident that we had the opening time right. We continued on up the coast passing Greenwich marina. At this longitude we changed from zero degrees west to zero degrees east. Oops! A quick change to our next gps waypoint saw us back on track to Calpe where we anchored in the lee of the huge limestone headland for the night before setting off at dawn for the 60 mile crossing to Ibiza.




Leaving Calpe behind at dawn


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