The hills are alive...

Baie de Crovani

Gulf of Pero

With the forecast looking good we left Calvi and turned left down the rugged west coast of Corsica. We dropped anchor in the wild and deserted Baie de Crovani, a gentle ten mile sail away. The following morning we continued on down the spectacular coastline passing red granite cliffs that appear to dive down into the crystal clear waters. We carried on past the gulfs of Girolato and Porto as we had stopped there last year and went in search of pastures new. Our first and second choice bays didn't come up to scratch but third time lucky. We found a delightful spot tucked in on the northern side of the Gulf of Pero and stayed put for a few days. There are coastal paths everywhere in Corsica and we dinghied ashore and enjoyed a lovely walk to the restored 17th century Genoese tower perched on the end of the headland.

Genoese tower

Gulfs of Pero and Sagone

Corte citadel from the lower town

Corte from the upper town

Having had our fill of chilling it was time to hit civilisation again and we sailed on down to Ajaccio managing to fit in a lunchtime stop on the way at the Iles Sanguinaires rocks. We made our way up to the northern end of Ajaccio harbour and anchored in the same, technically prohibited, place as last year. It is a very convenient spot and only a short dinghy ride ashore to town. We checked the forecast and with the promise of sun and little wind we left the boat and took the train up into the mountains to the heart of central Corsica. This year we opted for a

Place Paoli, Corte

longer ride up to Corte which briefly became the capital of Pascal Paoli's relatively short lived Corsican republic in 1755. Today it is still a nationalist stronghold and in 2005 the gendarmerie and tourist office were bombed. The setting is spectacular with the citadel perched on a craggy mountain top. It also attracts many hikers in the summer exploring the mountains and valleys and the surrounding National Park. We walked through the modern lower town passing Corsica's

Place Gaffory, Corte

 only University, originally founded by Pascal Paoli, and up some steep steps into the old town. We stopped for a coffee in Place Paoli in front of yet another statue of the "Father of the Nation". The town was buzzing with tourists and hikers. We followed the narrow cobbled streets up the hill through the centre of the upper town to the citadel, originally built in 1419. We then settled down to a delicious traditional lunch of roast pork stuffed with spicy sausage washed down with a carafe of the local wine. We had time for one last coffee in Place Paoli before catching our train back to Ajaccio.

Place Paoli

                                                              Corte shops
                                                             

Corte citadel

Fire fighting plane coming down for a drink

Back on the boat the weather deteriorated and we sat out a few wet and windy days along with a swarm of ferocious mosquitoes. We replaced some broken sail slides at the large chandlery in town, caught up with the laundry and did lots of shopping. We were happy to leave as soon as the weather cleared as we were covered head to toe in bites. We weighed anchor and popped into the marina to top up with diesel, water and gaz before continuing our journey south. 

                                                 Railway art, Ajaccio train station