8000 years of mystery and history

Anchored off Taravo beach, Porto Pollo

We sailed south down to the Gulf of Valinco and dropped anchor off Taravo beach, a long swathe of white sand, just around the headland from the village of Porto Pollo. It was a short dinghy ride to the beach and a stroll through an olive grove to town so a lovely convenient spot to base ourselves for a few days. 

   

Taravo anchorage

Getting some shade under a 2000 year old olive tree, Filitosa

We wanted to visit the extraordinary megalithic site

Filitosa

 of Filitosa so went ashore in search of some wheels. We were in luck, though unfortunately the wheels were of the pedal variety rather than motorised. Neither of us had been on a bike for about ten years so it was with some trepidation we set off on our big adventure inland armed with a map and all sorts of ambitious itineraries suggested by our helpful bike hire proprietor. It was a pleasant 45 minute ride up the fertile Taravo river valley but we were very happy to arrive at Filitosa and get our breath back. We spent a magical couple of hours wandering around

Filitosa

this very atmospheric site where Neolithic and Bronze Age cultures left their sculpted megaliths and constructions peculiar to the island of Corsica. Filitosa comprises a magnificent array of prehistoric statue menhirs (Fr: long stones) with the hard granite carved into human forms for reasons that are not entirely known. The site was originally occupied 8000 years ago (3000 years before the first pyramids were built) and the carvings created about 4000 years ago. Refreshed after a drink and our picnic lunch we got back on our bikes and made the dubious decision to continue north on a scenic circuit suggested by our trusted bike hire shop. Big mistake. 35 km later we could hardly walk and had very sore bottoms.

Filitosa

      

                                                             Spot the faces!
 

Baie de Cupabia

Our beach bar paillote

With an easterly wind forecast we decided to pop round the corner to the wonderful Baie de Cupabia. Having just been sent some very envy making photos from a fellow sailor who had just arrived in Fiji (having wintered in Tunisia with us the previous year!) we were happy to find our very own turquoise paradise for a couple of days. We enjoyed a lovely coastal walk as well as a well earned midday drink at the beach paillote. Despite a lack of wind we were suddenly woken at dawn with a huge rock and rolly westerly swell. We had no choice but to up anchor and move round to the shelter of Campomoro. We treated ourselves to a delicious lunch of Moule-frites ashore and dozed in the cockpit in the afternoon. With strong northerly winds forecast it was time to move yet again and we made our way back across the gulf to Taravo beach. We enjoyed a fabulous walk along the windswept sands and watched the waves crashing ashore.

        

                                                          Baie de Cupabia

Early morning back at Taravo beach

Our time in Corsica was coming to an end. Some serious weather systems were drawing in and we decided it would be a good idea to cross the Bonifacio Straits sooner rather than later. We moved south aided by some strong westerly winds and found shelter in Anse de Roccapina. Sadly there was no time to hang around and enjoy this delightful spot. With even stronger winds forecast we upped anchor the following morning and had a cracking sail across the Straits to Sardinian waters.

Taravo beach