Showing posts with label Porto Vecchio. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Porto Vecchio. Show all posts

3 Aug 2015

One Moor for the road


San Ciprianu

Genoese Tower
We had such a fast passage across to Corsica that we had to reduce sail to slow ourselves down and avoid arriving in the dark. We dropped anchor at dawn in the crystal clear waters of San Ciprianu bay just north of Porto Vecchio and stayed put for a few days. Having had a taster of Corsica last year we decided to return but this time spend a bit longer exploring this lovely island and its delightful anchorages. San Ciprianu is a stunning bay surrounded by sandy beaches but it is large and therefore crowded and noisy. We'd soon had enough of the jet bikes and water skiers zipping by and moved north to Anse de Cola, a much smaller bay which we shared with only a couple of other yachts and a beach of nudists! We ventured off the boat (fully dressed) to climb up to the Genoese tower perched on the next promontory which afforded stunning views back down to the boat as well as over to the bay of Pinarellu and another swathe of sand. Eventually we had to tear ourselves away from these idyllic anchorages and go in search of provisions, internet and most importantly, a Corsican flag.



Anse de Cola


Golfe de Pinarellu


Corsican flag
Corsica has had a turbulent past and has been the subject of many invasions. Pascal Paoli, Corsica's revolutionary leader between 1755 and 1769, established the Moor's head with white bandana as Corsica's official emblem. It is seen everywhere - on beer bottles, shops, official buildings and on the traditional flag. 1769 marked the end of Corsican independence and apart from a brief two year period under British rule it has remained part of the French republic to the present day. We therefore hoisted two courtesy flags with the Corsican Moor taking pride of place above the French flag.


Porto Novo


Porto Novo


Spot the bird!
We anchored next to Porto Vecchio marina and dinghied ashore. We managed to re-activate our last years data sim and filled our shopping trolley to the brim. Stocked up again we ventured south and found a couple of lovely wild anchorages in Porto Novo. Both were deserted with no bodies on the beach and not a building in sight. We explored the etang (lagoon) lying behind the large beach and put our bird watching skills to the test as we disturbed the abundant wild life in the reeds.



Porto Novo


Porto Novo
Porto Vecchio from a very windy anchorage
Our time in this lovely spot came to an end with a strong westerly wind forecast. Although there are plenty of safe sandy anchorages in this area we decided to head back to the glutinous mud and good shelter afforded by Porto Vecchio harbour. The strong Mistral blew for a few days and the anchorage was quite full the night the huge storm was due to pass over. We were alert for any yachts trying to anchor close to us and needless to say at dusk a French catamaran anchored right in front of us. We gesticulated to him in no uncertain terms that he had to move away from us which thankfully he did. We spent much of that night on deck keeping an eye as the wind strength crawled towards 50 knots. Suddenly we were aware of frantic shouting and torch lights waving around. The catamaran we had told to move away had dragged his anchor and had careered into a large Polish yacht lying not far from us. It did not stop there and was now heading towards the shore. The police and lifeboat came to the rescue and the catamaran was towed to safety and tied to a mid channel mooring. Thankfully we survived the night with no mishaps and by morning the wind abated. It was time to move on. We had friends arriving in a few days and we still had to get round the northern finger, Cap Corse, to meet them in St Florent on the north coast.



Porto Vecchio from a flat calm anchorage


Sunset over Porto Vecchio harbour

5 Jun 2014

and across to Corsica



Arriving in Port de Rondinara

Tunisian textiles for sale!
With gale force winds forecast for later in the day we got up at 5.30 to make an early start across the Bonifacio Straits. We had a fast and bumpy crossing but were soon in the lee of the Lavezzi islands and we enjoyed a nice flat sail for the rest of the way to Port de Rondinara, south eastern Corsica, a stunning bay where we dropped the anchor in crystal clear water. We enjoyed swimming and snorkelling and even managed to make a start at removing the barnacles and wireworm that had attached themselves to our hull over the winter. Next stop was Porto Vecchio harbour situated at the southern end of a wonderful bay. We anchored east of the commercial harbour and dinghied over to the marina. We walked up to the old Genoese walled town on the hilltop which was frequented by the beautiful  "in crowd" enjoying the exclusive shops. It is often dubbed the Corsican St Tropez. We even spied some of the beautiful handwoven Tunisian textiles for sale at over five times the price they were in Monastir! On our way back down we found a huge supermarket just north of the marina and stocked up with some French treats.



At anchor in Port de Rondinara


Porto Vecchio haute ville from the anchorage

We planned on sailing up to Elba next but were delayed for a couple days waiting for some favourable winds. Instead we motored up to the top of the bay and spent a night at Baie de Stagnolo before returning south to the harbour. Thanks to a Brit popping over in his dinghy to say hello we discovered that in France most marinas and harbours offer a free 4 hour berth, quai d'accueil, for provisioning, taking on water etc. We checked with the marina and yes they confirmed that we could come in anytime between 10am and 3pm. The day before leaving for Elba we took advantage of the free berth, filled up with water, did some more shopping and even had a proper shower!


Porto Vecchio bay from the haute ville