Noisy neighbours

Ride of a Lifetime in her alongside winter berth

We are enjoying being in Italy and getting to know Gaeta, our base for the winter months. It is a lovely, vibrant old town built on a peninsula lying midway between Rome and Naples. The town was originally a small settlement of fishermen and farmers dating back to the seventh century and the old medieval quarter is dominated by the strategically positioned imposing Angevin and  Aragonese Castle. We have a very useful alongside berth in the small, extremely friendly, family run marina which is very conveniently situated in the centre of town. The marina is full of predominantly Italian boats but there is a cosmopolitan smattering of cruisers based here for the coming months to keep us company.

The marina in Gaeta

Our 189m neighbour, USS Mount Whitney

Gulf of Gaeta 

Not long after we arrived in Gaeta the 189m US navy and NATO command ship USS Mount Whitney docked just outside the marina. It is alleged to be the most sophisticated command, control, communications, computer and intelligence ship ever commissioned. It is surrounded by a security net and 24 hour patrols. We now have a huge and noisy next door neighbour.  The bugle sounds reveille at 8am every morning followed by the Star-Spangled Banner. Throughout the day there are constant ringing bells and loudspeeker announcements. We had armed guards patrolling the pontoons last year in Tunisia. We now have a huge warship watching over us. Not sure whether we feel safer or not!

View down to medieval Gaeta from Monte Orlando

Serapo beach

Bougainvillea in Gaeta old town

Rising above the old city of Gaeta is the beautiful wooded  Monte Orlando. It is a protected area with various woodland trails that lead up to the mountain top and the Mausoleum of Lucius Plancus, a Roman consul in the 1st century BC. In need of some exercise we set off up the “dormouse” trail and followed the path passing the many ruins of the formidable military fortifications of the Bourbon era. There were stunning views back down to Serapo beach on one side of the peninsula and to medieval Gaeta and the Pontine islands in the hazy distance on the other. We still have the "cliff" walk and the "ornithological" route to look forward to another day...

The Mausoleum of Lucius Plancus

                               Church of St Francis and the Statue of Religion, Gaeta             

Medieval Gaeta

Gales, gales and yet more gales....

Gulf of Arzachena

Gulf of Arzachena

Once we'd crossed the Bonifacio Straits into Sardinian waters we needed to find a safe haven for a few days as strong north easterly winds were expected. We decided on the very sheltered Porto Palma on the south of the island of Caprera in the Maddalena archipelago. This bay, needless to say, was firmly in the national park where you are charged not only to pick up a buoy but also to drop your own anchor in their pristine waters. It was the end of the season and with the weather deteriorating we decided to risk it. 


We found a great spot in the north eastern corner of this lovely bay and had fun watching the dinghies from the two sailing schools zip by. There were noticeably more yachts here than in Corsica and the anchorage was filling up fast. Unfortunately our time in this lovely spot was cut short the following morning with the arrival of the park warden. We paid our dues and were allowed to stay for one more night as long as we were gone before they arrived at 10 the next morning. 

Cala Gavetta marina, La Maddalena

Moored up in Cala Gavetta marina

La Maddalena promenade

The predicted wind speeds were forecast to increase. To avoid paying to sit out the storm at anchor we sailed south a couple of miles to the Sardinian mainland to a bay in the north eastern corner of the Gulf of Arzachena which looked like it might afford a good lee from the north easterly winds. It proved to be a great little spot with good shelter and a supermarket just up the road where we could replenish our dwindling supplies. With the wind and rain fast approaching we raced ashore to Baia Sardinia, a rather bizarre purpose built high end tourist resort on the edge of the Costa Smeralda. It served its purpose and we were soon back on the boat before the heavens opened. The storm was now due to pass overhead with an overnight shift of gale force winds. We had already sat out two days of bad weather but with the forecast winds increasing to 50+ knots with non stop torrential rain we decided we'd had enough. We donned our waterproof clothing and braved the elements for the hour long journey back up to La Maddalena island and the safety of Cala Gavetta marina.

La Maddalena harbour

La Maddalena

We stayed put for a few days and enjoyed re-exploring La Maddalena. We'd stopped here briefly ten years ago so it was nice to refresh our memories. It also coincided with the Rugby World cup and an important Welsh game. We dressed up head to toe in our waterproof gear and made a dash for a port side bar that was showing the game. A good result but the weather had deteriorated further during the match. We stood in the doorway watching the road turning into a river. There was no sign

The roads turn to rivers

of a respite so we just had to go for it and wade back. At least the boat got a good clean! Thankfully by morning the sun was shining again and finally the winds were starting to drop.

Cala di Volpe

Waiting for favourable winds, Olbia town quay

Unfortunately the weather was very unsettled and there were yet more gales forecast to come our way. We decided to move before the next one arrived and had a lovely sail down past Porto Cervo to Cala di Volpe, a wonderfully protected shallow inlet. In the summer it is full of the jet set in their super yachts and noisy toys but in October there were only a couple of other yachts for company. We enjoyed a day of calm and were able to dive under the boat to do a final bottom clean before it started howling again. We ended up staying put for a week and sitting out two more gales. We were beginning to wonder if we were ever going to be able to make the 200 miles across the Tyrrhenian Sea to our winter destination of Gaeta lying between Rome and Naples on the Italian mainland. With easterly winds forecast and our food stores again depleting we dropped down to Olbia town quay to wait for favourable winds. It was a convenient spot right in town but sadly there have been a lot of thefts from boats in broad daylight so one of us always stayed on board.

Yet another gale heading our way

Approaching Gaeta by sea

Yet another gale blew through and with a small window we set sail as the westerly winds were abating. It was a bumpy but extremely fast crossing and we dropped anchor in Gaeta harbour with an hour to spare before the start of the Wales v Australia game! We had hoped to stop in the Pontine islands before tying ourselves up for the winter but they will have to wait for some calm seas in the Spring. Yet more rain and wind was on its way so we decided to call it a day and head into Gaeta marina.

Gaeta harbour

8000 years of mystery and history

Anchored off Taravo beach, Porto Pollo

We sailed south down to the Gulf of Valinco and dropped anchor off Taravo beach, a long swathe of white sand, just around the headland from the village of Porto Pollo. It was a short dinghy ride to the beach and a stroll through an olive grove to town so a lovely convenient spot to base ourselves for a few days. 

   

Taravo anchorage

Getting some shade under a 2000 year old olive tree, Filitosa

We wanted to visit the extraordinary megalithic site

Filitosa

 of Filitosa so went ashore in search of some wheels. We were in luck, though unfortunately the wheels were of the pedal variety rather than motorised. Neither of us had been on a bike for about ten years so it was with some trepidation we set off on our big adventure inland armed with a map and all sorts of ambitious itineraries suggested by our helpful bike hire proprietor. It was a pleasant 45 minute ride up the fertile Taravo river valley but we were very happy to arrive at Filitosa and get our breath back. We spent a magical couple of hours wandering around

Filitosa

this very atmospheric site where Neolithic and Bronze Age cultures left their sculpted megaliths and constructions peculiar to the island of Corsica. Filitosa comprises a magnificent array of prehistoric statue menhirs (Fr: long stones) with the hard granite carved into human forms for reasons that are not entirely known. The site was originally occupied 8000 years ago (3000 years before the first pyramids were built) and the carvings created about 4000 years ago. Refreshed after a drink and our picnic lunch we got back on our bikes and made the dubious decision to continue north on a scenic circuit suggested by our trusted bike hire shop. Big mistake. 35 km later we could hardly walk and had very sore bottoms.

Filitosa

      

                                                             Spot the faces!
 

Baie de Cupabia

Our beach bar paillote

With an easterly wind forecast we decided to pop round the corner to the wonderful Baie de Cupabia. Having just been sent some very envy making photos from a fellow sailor who had just arrived in Fiji (having wintered in Tunisia with us the previous year!) we were happy to find our very own turquoise paradise for a couple of days. We enjoyed a lovely coastal walk as well as a well earned midday drink at the beach paillote. Despite a lack of wind we were suddenly woken at dawn with a huge rock and rolly westerly swell. We had no choice but to up anchor and move round to the shelter of Campomoro. We treated ourselves to a delicious lunch of Moule-frites ashore and dozed in the cockpit in the afternoon. With strong northerly winds forecast it was time to move yet again and we made our way back across the gulf to Taravo beach. We enjoyed a fabulous walk along the windswept sands and watched the waves crashing ashore.

        

                                                          Baie de Cupabia

Early morning back at Taravo beach

Our time in Corsica was coming to an end. Some serious weather systems were drawing in and we decided it would be a good idea to cross the Bonifacio Straits sooner rather than later. We moved south aided by some strong westerly winds and found shelter in Anse de Roccapina. Sadly there was no time to hang around and enjoy this delightful spot. With even stronger winds forecast we upped anchor the following morning and had a cracking sail across the Straits to Sardinian waters.

Taravo beach

The hills are alive...

Baie de Crovani

Gulf of Pero

With the forecast looking good we left Calvi and turned left down the rugged west coast of Corsica. We dropped anchor in the wild and deserted Baie de Crovani, a gentle ten mile sail away. The following morning we continued on down the spectacular coastline passing red granite cliffs that appear to dive down into the crystal clear waters. We carried on past the gulfs of Girolato and Porto as we had stopped there last year and went in search of pastures new. Our first and second choice bays didn't come up to scratch but third time lucky. We found a delightful spot tucked in on the northern side of the Gulf of Pero and stayed put for a few days. There are coastal paths everywhere in Corsica and we dinghied ashore and enjoyed a lovely walk to the restored 17th century Genoese tower perched on the end of the headland.

Genoese tower

Gulfs of Pero and Sagone

Corte citadel from the lower town

Corte from the upper town

Having had our fill of chilling it was time to hit civilisation again and we sailed on down to Ajaccio managing to fit in a lunchtime stop on the way at the Iles Sanguinaires rocks. We made our way up to the northern end of Ajaccio harbour and anchored in the same, technically prohibited, place as last year. It is a very convenient spot and only a short dinghy ride ashore to town. We checked the forecast and with the promise of sun and little wind we left the boat and took the train up into the mountains to the heart of central Corsica. This year we opted for a

Place Paoli, Corte

longer ride up to Corte which briefly became the capital of Pascal Paoli's relatively short lived Corsican republic in 1755. Today it is still a nationalist stronghold and in 2005 the gendarmerie and tourist office were bombed. The setting is spectacular with the citadel perched on a craggy mountain top. It also attracts many hikers in the summer exploring the mountains and valleys and the surrounding National Park. We walked through the modern lower town passing Corsica's

Place Gaffory, Corte

 only University, originally founded by Pascal Paoli, and up some steep steps into the old town. We stopped for a coffee in Place Paoli in front of yet another statue of the "Father of the Nation". The town was buzzing with tourists and hikers. We followed the narrow cobbled streets up the hill through the centre of the upper town to the citadel, originally built in 1419. We then settled down to a delicious traditional lunch of roast pork stuffed with spicy sausage washed down with a carafe of the local wine. We had time for one last coffee in Place Paoli before catching our train back to Ajaccio.

Place Paoli

                                                              Corte shops
                                                             

Corte citadel

Fire fighting plane coming down for a drink

Back on the boat the weather deteriorated and we sat out a few wet and windy days along with a swarm of ferocious mosquitoes. We replaced some broken sail slides at the large chandlery in town, caught up with the laundry and did lots of shopping. We were happy to leave as soon as the weather cleared as we were covered head to toe in bites. We weighed anchor and popped into the marina to top up with diesel, water and gaz before continuing our journey south. 

                                                 Railway art, Ajaccio train station