Showing posts with label Campomoro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Campomoro. Show all posts

25 Sept 2015

8000 years of mystery and history



Anchored off Taravo beach, Porto Pollo
We sailed south down to the Gulf of Valinco and dropped anchor off Taravo beach, a long swathe of white sand, just around the headland from the village of Porto Pollo. It was a short dinghy ride to the beach and a stroll through an olive grove to town so a lovely convenient spot to base ourselves for a few days. 






   
Taravo anchorage


Getting some shade under a 2000 year old olive tree, Filitosa


We wanted to visit the extraordinary megalithic site
Filitosa
 
of Filitosa so went ashore in search of some wheels. We were in luck, though unfortunately the wheels were of the pedal variety rather than motorised. Neither of us had been on a bike for about ten years so it was with some trepidation we set off on our big adventure inland armed with a map and all sorts of ambitious itineraries suggested by our helpful bike hire proprietor. It was a pleasant 45 minute ride up the fertile Taravo river valley but we were very happy to arrive at Filitosa and get our breath back. We spent a magical couple of hours wandering around

Filitosa
this very atmospheric site where Neolithic and Bronze Age cultures left their sculpted megaliths and constructions peculiar to the island of Corsica. 
Filitosa comprises a magnificent array of prehistoric statue menhirs (Fr: long stones) with the hard granite carved into human forms for reasons that are not entirely known. The site was originally occupied 8000 years ago (3000 years before the first pyramids were built) and the carvings created about 4000 years ago. Refreshed after a drink and our picnic lunch we got back on our bikes and made the dubious decision to continue north on a scenic circuit suggested by our trusted bike hire shop. Big mistake. 35 km later we could hardly walk and had very sore bottoms.




Filitosa


      
                                                             Spot the faces!
 


Baie de Cupabia
Our beach bar paillote
With an easterly wind forecast we decided to pop round the corner to the wonderful Baie de Cupabia. Having just been sent some very envy making photos from a fellow sailor who had just arrived in Fiji (having wintered in Tunisia with us the previous year!) we were happy to find our very own turquoise paradise for a couple of days. We enjoyed a lovely coastal walk as well as a well earned midday drink at the beach paillote. Despite a lack of wind we were suddenly woken at dawn with a huge rock and rolly westerly swell. We had no choice but to up anchor and move round to the shelter of Campomoro. We treated ourselves to a delicious lunch of Moule-frites ashore and dozed in the cockpit in the afternoon. With strong northerly winds forecast it was time to move yet again and we made our way back across the gulf to Taravo beach. We enjoyed a fabulous walk along the windswept sands and watched the waves crashing ashore.




        
                                                          Baie de Cupabia



Early morning back at Taravo beach


Our time in Corsica was coming to an end. Some serious weather systems were drawing in and we decided it would be a good idea to cross the Bonifacio Straits sooner rather than later. We moved south aided by some strong westerly winds and found shelter in Anse de Roccapina. Sadly there was no time to hang around and enjoy this delightful spot. With even stronger winds forecast we upped anchor the following morning and had a cracking sail across the Straits to Sardinian waters.



Taravo beach

10 Sept 2014

Life's a beach


Baie de Cupabia
Campomoro anchorage
With settled weather forecast we set sail for the Gulf of Valinco. Our leaving Ajaccio coincided with the start of the third leg of the Corsica Classic yacht race. We watched as the crews hoisted their sails and prepared themselves for the start gun. They were soon overtaking us on all sides. A wonderful sight. We dropped anchor in Baie de Cupabia. Another gorgeous stretch of sand, no buildings and only a couple of other yachts. We moved round to Porto Pollo the following morning and were just in time to see the start of the fourth leg of the Corsica Classic. The light was magical with the sun reflecting off the rippling sea and the yachts silhouetted against the hazy headland beyond. We dinghied ashore and had a quick look round the small touristy village which was once a sleepy fishing port. In the afternoon we set sail across the bay to Campomoro, a tiny hamlet at the head of another stunning bay. It was a popular anchorage and we found a nice turquoise patch of sand to drop our anchor for a couple of days. We had a lovely walk up to the Genoese tower, one of the largest in Corsica, and then round the promontory

Campomoro
and back to the village for a well earned lunch in one of the beach side 
restaurants overlooking the bay. With some strong northerly winds coming our way we decided to head back over to Porto Pollo but instead of anchoring off the town this time we tucked ourselves up on the eastern side of the headland at the northern end of a very long sandy beach. We stayed put until the winds abated watching the kite surfers having a ball.



Corsica Classic


Campomoro rocks
View down from the Campomoro tower


View of Campomoro bay and tower from the restaurant



Kitesurfing on Porto Pollo beach


Anchorage off Porto Pollo beach


Anse de Roccapina
Golfe de Roccapina
Roccapina tower
We continued along the rugged south west coast and found yet more wonderful anchorages. Corsica's sublime landscape and white sand beaches have the distinction in the Mediterranean of being mostly unspoilt by development. We were joined by just one other yacht in Plage de Tralicetu, another wild stretch of sand. As we entered Anse de Roccapina the crew of a French yacht on their way out passed us telling us it was "paradis". We stayed for two nights and managed a steep climb up to yet another Genoese tower which afforded yet more wonderful views of the coastline. Having visited Bonifacio a couple of years ago we continued past and instead dropped anchor in Golfe de Santa Manza. Not a soul on the beach and only a few other boats for company. Our penultimate stop was the lovely Porto di Rondinara anchorage which

Anse de Roccapina
had been our first stop on Corsica back in June. We celebrated our circumnavigation with lunch at the beach side restaurant and both agreed that we'd love to re visit this beautiful island again sometime. The settled weather continued and the notorious Bonifacio Straits were unusually placid. On our way back south to Sardinia we were able to stop in Cala Lazarina on the island of Lavezzi for our last night in Corsican waters. We were surrounded by sculpted granite boulders. It is very beautiful and consequently very popular but once all the day trippers had left we
View from our lunch table, Porto di Rondinara
 went ashore to explore this magical uninhabited island. We visited the cemetery and the monument for the victims of the worst ever shipwreck in Mediterranean history. The frigate Semillante was shipwrecked in 1855 and the 773 crew and soldiers bound for the Crimean War perished.


"The man who has experienced shipwreck shudders even at a calm sea"  Ovid





Golfe de Santa Manza


Golfe de Santa Manza
Semillante monument, Lavezzi island


Anchored amongst the rocks, Lavezzi island

Semillante monument, Lavezzi island

Cala Lazarina, Lavezzi island


Fish feeding in the crystal clear waters