8000 years of mystery and history

Anchored off Taravo beach, Porto Pollo

We sailed south down to the Gulf of Valinco and dropped anchor off Taravo beach, a long swathe of white sand, just around the headland from the village of Porto Pollo. It was a short dinghy ride to the beach and a stroll through an olive grove to town so a lovely convenient spot to base ourselves for a few days. 

   

Taravo anchorage

Getting some shade under a 2000 year old olive tree, Filitosa

We wanted to visit the extraordinary megalithic site

Filitosa

 of Filitosa so went ashore in search of some wheels. We were in luck, though unfortunately the wheels were of the pedal variety rather than motorised. Neither of us had been on a bike for about ten years so it was with some trepidation we set off on our big adventure inland armed with a map and all sorts of ambitious itineraries suggested by our helpful bike hire proprietor. It was a pleasant 45 minute ride up the fertile Taravo river valley but we were very happy to arrive at Filitosa and get our breath back. We spent a magical couple of hours wandering around

Filitosa

this very atmospheric site where Neolithic and Bronze Age cultures left their sculpted megaliths and constructions peculiar to the island of Corsica. Filitosa comprises a magnificent array of prehistoric statue menhirs (Fr: long stones) with the hard granite carved into human forms for reasons that are not entirely known. The site was originally occupied 8000 years ago (3000 years before the first pyramids were built) and the carvings created about 4000 years ago. Refreshed after a drink and our picnic lunch we got back on our bikes and made the dubious decision to continue north on a scenic circuit suggested by our trusted bike hire shop. Big mistake. 35 km later we could hardly walk and had very sore bottoms.

Filitosa

      

                                                             Spot the faces!
 

Baie de Cupabia

Our beach bar paillote

With an easterly wind forecast we decided to pop round the corner to the wonderful Baie de Cupabia. Having just been sent some very envy making photos from a fellow sailor who had just arrived in Fiji (having wintered in Tunisia with us the previous year!) we were happy to find our very own turquoise paradise for a couple of days. We enjoyed a lovely coastal walk as well as a well earned midday drink at the beach paillote. Despite a lack of wind we were suddenly woken at dawn with a huge rock and rolly westerly swell. We had no choice but to up anchor and move round to the shelter of Campomoro. We treated ourselves to a delicious lunch of Moule-frites ashore and dozed in the cockpit in the afternoon. With strong northerly winds forecast it was time to move yet again and we made our way back across the gulf to Taravo beach. We enjoyed a fabulous walk along the windswept sands and watched the waves crashing ashore.

        

                                                          Baie de Cupabia

Early morning back at Taravo beach

Our time in Corsica was coming to an end. Some serious weather systems were drawing in and we decided it would be a good idea to cross the Bonifacio Straits sooner rather than later. We moved south aided by some strong westerly winds and found shelter in Anse de Roccapina. Sadly there was no time to hang around and enjoy this delightful spot. With even stronger winds forecast we upped anchor the following morning and had a cracking sail across the Straits to Sardinian waters.

Taravo beach

The hills are alive...

Baie de Crovani

Gulf of Pero

With the forecast looking good we left Calvi and turned left down the rugged west coast of Corsica. We dropped anchor in the wild and deserted Baie de Crovani, a gentle ten mile sail away. The following morning we continued on down the spectacular coastline passing red granite cliffs that appear to dive down into the crystal clear waters. We carried on past the gulfs of Girolato and Porto as we had stopped there last year and went in search of pastures new. Our first and second choice bays didn't come up to scratch but third time lucky. We found a delightful spot tucked in on the northern side of the Gulf of Pero and stayed put for a few days. There are coastal paths everywhere in Corsica and we dinghied ashore and enjoyed a lovely walk to the restored 17th century Genoese tower perched on the end of the headland.

Genoese tower

Gulfs of Pero and Sagone

Corte citadel from the lower town

Corte from the upper town

Having had our fill of chilling it was time to hit civilisation again and we sailed on down to Ajaccio managing to fit in a lunchtime stop on the way at the Iles Sanguinaires rocks. We made our way up to the northern end of Ajaccio harbour and anchored in the same, technically prohibited, place as last year. It is a very convenient spot and only a short dinghy ride ashore to town. We checked the forecast and with the promise of sun and little wind we left the boat and took the train up into the mountains to the heart of central Corsica. This year we opted for a

Place Paoli, Corte

longer ride up to Corte which briefly became the capital of Pascal Paoli's relatively short lived Corsican republic in 1755. Today it is still a nationalist stronghold and in 2005 the gendarmerie and tourist office were bombed. The setting is spectacular with the citadel perched on a craggy mountain top. It also attracts many hikers in the summer exploring the mountains and valleys and the surrounding National Park. We walked through the modern lower town passing Corsica's

Place Gaffory, Corte

 only University, originally founded by Pascal Paoli, and up some steep steps into the old town. We stopped for a coffee in Place Paoli in front of yet another statue of the "Father of the Nation". The town was buzzing with tourists and hikers. We followed the narrow cobbled streets up the hill through the centre of the upper town to the citadel, originally built in 1419. We then settled down to a delicious traditional lunch of roast pork stuffed with spicy sausage washed down with a carafe of the local wine. We had time for one last coffee in Place Paoli before catching our train back to Ajaccio.

Place Paoli

                                                              Corte shops
                                                             

Corte citadel

Fire fighting plane coming down for a drink

Back on the boat the weather deteriorated and we sat out a few wet and windy days along with a swarm of ferocious mosquitoes. We replaced some broken sail slides at the large chandlery in town, caught up with the laundry and did lots of shopping. We were happy to leave as soon as the weather cleared as we were covered head to toe in bites. We weighed anchor and popped into the marina to top up with diesel, water and gaz before continuing our journey south. 

                                                 Railway art, Ajaccio train station